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Thursday, February 7, 2013

Interwar France and Anti-Semitism


After the Great War, Pope Pius XI did his best to continue improved relations between Catholics and Jews when in 1928 he issued a holy decree that formally condemned hatred of the Jews. Interwar French clergy followed suit and rejected anti-Semitism and as a result, “populist and religious Jew-hatred fell distinctly out of favor” (Zuccotti, 23). Unfortunately, France, along with the rest of Europe, was about to enter yet another period of political and economic unrest that would eventually rock the seemingly amiable feelings about the Jews.
Pope Pius XI (Photo: Wikipedia)
Between 1906 and 1939, an estimated 200,000 foreign Jews entered France, approximately 82 percent of which were Eastern European Jews escaping Russian pogroms (Zuccotti, 19). These working class Jews settled into distinctly segregated Jewish neighborhoods in France, such as the Marais, where they spoke Yiddish and could not have seemed any less French. 
Paris, Jewish Quarter (ca. 1933-1939) Photo Courtesy of USHMM 
Even though the French societal exterior suggested that anti-Semitism was out of fashion, it was never far from the surface of the French psyche. Medieval thoughts of blood libel and host desecration were still told like boogeyman stories to children as is recalled by French historian Pierre Pierrard, who lived in Lille in between the wars:
…For me, as for many young pupils in the religious schools, the synagogue on the rue Auguste-Angellier was a strange and forbidden place that our imagination associated with the big (Freemason) lodge on the rue Thiers of which we knew that its heavy walls, perpetually closed, hid horrible mysteries where profaned hosts played an essential role (Zuccotti, 24).
As more and more foreign Jews entered France in the 1920s and 1930s, France, like the rest of Europe and America, suffered from hyperinflation during the Global Depression. The middle class was hardest hit as they resorted to selling personal belongings and treasured heirlooms that had been in their families for generations. Devastated, they again looked for someone or something on which to blame for their misfortune. 
Rosiers Street, Jewish quarter, pre-World War II. Paris, France (date uncertain) Photo Courtesy of USHMM 
Initially, the French blamed their existing government, The Third Republic. As a response to the economic crisis, there was a strong political reaction all over Europe that pitted an extreme right against a radical left. The far right in France was an alliance between, Action Française, the Parti Populaire Française (PPF) and the Croix de Feu.
Croix-de-Feu Insignia (Photo: D. Laurent, Dickinson Univ)
 These groups exuded an aggressive nationalism and hated parliamentary governments, Communists, and were overtly anti-Semitic and xenophobic (particularly against Eastern Europeans). The goal of the fascist right was to re-establish a "True France" - one in which each individual was Catholic, and of French soil, and preferably had been for generations. By the 1930's, 7.5% of France's population was immigrants (the highest percentage in Europe), while the population of the "True France" was on the decline. These statistics certainly fanned the flames of the xenophobic right's fire (Zuccotti, 26).
In February of 1934, tensions came to a head as a result of a scandal known as the Stavisky Affair. An Eastern European Jew immigrant, Serge Stavisky, had embezzled millions by selling fake municipal bonds. 
Alexandre Stavisky, 1926 (Photo: Wikipedia) 
When some officials from the Third Republic were allegedly linked to the scandal, Stavisky wound up dead and the far right was in an uproar and held violent riots in the streets of Paris. One failed coup d'état, fifteen dead people, and one resigned Prime Minister later, the left stepped in to save the Republic.
An Attempted Fascist Coup in the French Newspaper, Le Populaire 
The left, which became known as The Popular Front, was an alliance of Socialists and Communists who were predominately middle and working class. Their goal was to save the Republic from the fascist right. Their leader, Léon Blum, was a Socialist and a Jew. The Popular Front won the 1936 elections, and Blum became Prime Minister. Although its tenure was short-lived, they did legislate improvements for the working class, a sector of the French population to which foreign Jewish immigrants belonged and benefitted.
Supporters of the Popular Front, 1936 France
With growing concerns regarding immigration – especially now that the Nazis were in control in Germany and 50,000 Germans, about half of which were Jews, sought asylum in France – the French government tightened immigration laws (Zuccotti, 25). The French Right was steadily feeding xenophobic propaganda to the public, and on November 12, 1938, a law was passed to se forth parameters by which naturalized French citizens deemed “undesirable” by the Minister of the Interior could be denaturalized and expelled from France (Zuccotti, 26). With the political right making such progress, by 1939, the Popular Front was alive in name only. 
Édouard Daladier, 1924 (Photo: Wikipedia)
Prime Minister Édouard Daladier made one final attempt to protect foreigners and Jews when he issued the Marchandeau Decree on April 21, 1939. This decree prohibited attacks on individuals in the press based on race or religion, and was supported by many clergy who publicly condemned anti-Semitism and racism (Zucotti, 27). Nevertheless, by September 3, 1939 France was at war and moments away from Nazi Occupation. Leaders of the right would find camaraderie with the Nazis. 

Source: Zuccotti, Susan. The Holocaust, The French, and the Jews. (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press,1999).


Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Au Revoir Paris

It is with a sad heart that I left my beautiful winter wonderland Paris...
Just a little snow...
but, not before a spectacular nighttime dinner cruise along the Seine! We dined with the other teachers and people from Passports and had a wonderful time. One of the couriers, Kate, who had taken a real shine to Madison and her panda hat asked if she could wear it - which Madison (who had likewise taken a shine to Kate) happily obliged.
Kate Looking Smashing in Maddie's Panda Hat
As the snow blustered about, we sailed up and down the Seine and enjoyed fabulous people....
Bill & Will - Dinner Cruise
Madison, Moi, and Gabby- Dinner Cruise
 good food...
Our Appetizer 
Main Course - Cod Choice
Main Course - Veal choice
Dessert - Oui, s'il vous plaît!
 and gorgeous sights....
The Eiffel Tower - Glittering and Glowing at Night (photo credit: Bill Switala)
Two World Icons (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)
Lady Liberty (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)
We returned to the hotel and as exhausted as I was, I found it difficult to fall asleep because there was a big part of me (okay, pretty much all of me) that did not want to return to the US. I stared out the window into the dark, snowy Parisian sky and felt a sadness that is difficult to put in words. And I really don't think that the average person would understand, so I have never  even bothered trying to find the words. Maybe in my next blog...
Upon arriving at our gate at Charles de Gaulle, Paris granted me one last treat. I found a Ladurée standing before me. It was on my list of things to try while in Paris, but we never got to it. Well,  it seems that fate was telling me that now was my time!
Shelves at Ladurée (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)
For those unfamiliar with Ladurée, it is the quintessential shop for candies and especially French macarons. It is decorated in such a style that is its own - feminine and French and shabby chic, and just plain awesome.
Ladurée Chandelier
I apologize for the glare on the photo below, but I had to include it so those who do not know what a French macaron is can see them up close. Most of my American friends would instantly think coconut macaroons (spelled with 2 o's). Not so with this brand of yumminess.
A half-dozen macarons at Ladurée - only about 20 USD! 
I just had to try one, so I chose a violet macaron. I love violet because it has a hint of raspberry flavor to it. Plus, it's just pretty to look at! Now, I have made macarons from scratch, and they are pretty darn good if I do say so myself. But this one...well, I believe the look on my face says it all!
I think...
I am...
in serious...
L-O-V-E!!
As I boarded the plane I fully expected the waterworks to begin as they normally do; however, I didn't cry. I figure it was either knowledge that I am returning in just six months or the obscene amount of legally prescribed Xanax numbing my psyche that prevented the tears from flowing. Perhaps it was a little of both? Either way, I felt blessed for the opportunity to learn so much and especially to share this phenomenal experience with my children. And with that thought, I bid Paris a fond (and temporary!) au revoir...

Sunday, January 20, 2013

Plus de Neige à Paris

We awoke this morning to more snow in Paris! I don't know how Parisians feel about it, but I absolutely love it! 
The Louvre in the Snow (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)
We tried to go back to the Mémorial des Déportés, but even though it was supposed to be open, it was not. I was pretty bummed, but at least I will be back in July and can go then.
Inside Notre Dame
Since it was right behind the memorial, we took the kids to Notre Dame. We studied the outside for a little bit then went inside where it was warm. Being Sunday morning, there was a mass going on and the cathedral's air was heavy with incense.
Mass at Notre Dame
The Crèche was still set up on the right side of the cathedral. It is, by far, the most intricate one I have ever seen. It really has no comparison - absolutely beautiful!
The Crèche at Notre Dame
Will and Maddie were "starving" (because a whole hour and a half had passed since breakfast) so we went to a little café. Which is where I realized I had left our Musée d'Orsay tickets in the hotel room. Bill ever so gallantly offered to brave the snow and retrieve said tickets while the kids and I  stayed in the warmth of the café.
Will at the Café

Madison enjoys a chicken sandwich
 Gabrielle sipped on a chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) and she and I split a banana and chocolate crêpe. Ooh la la, très magnifique!
Chocolate & Banana Crêpe...mmmmmmm
 When Bill returned, we hopped on the RER and went to the D'Orsay. This former train station is now a museum that houses Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art.
Inside the Musée d'Orsay (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)
We saw many Van Gogh paintings which was the highlight for Will and Maddie. We searched his painting L'Église d'Auvers-sur-Oise to try to find Van Gogh's monster, as well as the dedication to Amy Pond, but to no avail. Will and Maddie were also disappointed not to see the Starry Night with Tardis à la Doctor Who. It is good to know my children's art history comes, not from Bill or me who teach this stuff, but from a sci-fi show about a 940-something year old time lord from Gallifrey. 
We also enjoyed several paintings by Toulouse-Lautrec, Renoir, Degas, Monet, and Manet. I would show you photos of the many amazing paintings and statues in the Musée d'Orsay, but no photos were allowed. So you will either have to look up the paintings at the D'Orsay, or, if you're too lazy to do that, I suppose you could just use your imagination...
We headed back to the hotel, bought some cheese and baguettes and had a little snack/lunch. Everyone took a nap (except moi) to rest up for our bon voyage dinner cruise on the icy Seine. What did I do whilst my family slept? Well, Paris and I needed a little alone time...
I walked down the rue de Lafayette and took lots of photos.
Yarn Shop Window (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)

Shoes! (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)

Le Metro (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)

Paris Je T'aime (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)

Opéra Garnier (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)

Winter Sucks? Socks? (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)

Little Car in the Snow (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)
We are going on our dinner cruise in a moment. I won't have time to post any more tonight. We will get back late and must leave early for the airport. I will write and finish my thoughts about the trip soon! Au revoir!

Saturday, January 19, 2013

Un Samedi d'Hiver à Paris

A Winter Saturday in Paris....
Winter Eiffel Tower - (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala 2013)


In the morning, we had the good fortune of a three hour bus tour of Paris with a most knowledgable guide. In fact, I learned a few things I did not know before! In the past, our bus tours have always made stops at places like Pont Neuf and le Jardin du Luxembourg, but not today. Apparently, a new law has been passed that limits the places such tour busses can stop, but on a snowy cold morning such as today's, I didn't complain too much! We did have one stop at the Eiffel Tower (much to Madison's pleasure!) 
Gabrielle, Bill, moi, Maddie & Will at the Eiffel Tower
Gabrielle, Madison, et moi
 After lunch and a brief nap for the three kids, we headed to the Louvre. We had an absolutely spectacular time there. Will was totally fascinated by the Egyptian artifacts (he is studying ancient Egypt in school right now). 
Will at the Mastaba of a Pharaoh - The Louvre 
Madison was loving the Classical Greek statues, although she was bummed we didn't find a statue of Zeus or Poseidon. Her favorite, however, was the Mona Lisa. She took a brief video of it, which she narrated (too cute!) 
Madison partying Ancient Greek Style - The Louvre

Gabrielle enjoyed many of the paintings that she studied in AP Euro last year, and it was really neat that Bill was able to see them with her since he's the one who taught her! 
Gabrielle Fist Bumps Marble Man at The Louvre


Et moi? Well, I could not wait to see my lovely Delacroix - Liberty Leading the People, but to my horror, it was not there! It is currently on a world tour...go figure! My bitter disappointment was rapidly assuaged when I discovered Les Apartements des Napoleon III. Très belles!!
Napoleon III's Anti-Chambre - The Louvre
We could have wandered around there for much longer, but it was getting a bit dark, so we decided to head over to the Notre Dame area.
Notre Dame dans la Neige (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)
I wanted to take Bill and the kids to Shakespeare and Company, but the entrance was as far as we got...it is closed until February 1st. A bummer, but...I'll be back in July!
Dog Photo-Bombs the Kids at Shakespeare & Co
We ate dinner at La Braserade on rue de la Huchette. A tourist trap of an area, but we did have a wonderful dinner. The maître d' LOVED Madison. He spoke to her in French and kept calling her "Marie Claire." Gabrielle, Bill, and I all tried escargots this evening, and we all liked it very much! Bill and I had confit de canard (duck) and it was fantastic! 
Je Mange Escargot...Mmmmm - La Braserade, Paris
After dinner, we made our way to the métro by way of the Hôtel de Ville where it was a-glitter with lights and ice skaters. Sigh. Très parfait. 
Hôtel de Ville, Paris (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)
Will, Bill, Madison & Gabrielle Watch the Ice Skaters
Hôtel de Ville Alit (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)
And now I must bid you bonne nuit...I will write more tomorrow - our last day in Paris.
Duh. (photo credit: Jennifer Boyer-Switala)